f - Bye bye Yachana

I know I wrote about the sunset on Thursday night, but it really
warrants another mention as do some things I have missed while writing,
and this is a sort of closing of the Yachana Lodge chapter.

Looking at the photos that I took of that sunset almost took my breath
away. Its not just the sunset, or the water but its all of everything
rolled into a feeling that neither a camera nor words can capture. Its
a feeling of open-ness, of ..... well, not freedom, but a heck of a lot
closer than I can find in suburban Soddy. Its as if my brain opens up
in places like this, my brain, my mind and....... (warning! soppy moment
coming!) my heart and soul. I breathe easier, I sleep easier despite
the bugs that crawled around my room at night. Here, when the wind
blows its fresh, non threatening and guavas fall to the floor all over
the grounds of the lodge. I ate myself silly on guavas every day. Lucia
says that too many guavas have the same affect as wine - maybe that's
what happened!

And when the wind or rain stops and the sun sets behind those huge
amazing trees of the original rain forests, its like a clean breath, a
sweeping of old stuff, a new start, and .... aaah - ok enough. In
short, I love it - nowhere else have I ever felt the way I do at the
Napo River.

On Thursday night - last night in Yachana Lodge, I managed to get a good
amount of internet time, but no one was around to chat so I had time to
catch up on some emails - thanks for writing - its so good to get email
when I manage to check. Not always possible to respond, but after I
disconnect, I take the computer to my room and lay in the hammock and
read away.... thanks for so many laughs.

We found a tiny gecko on the path today - I mean really really tiny -
maybe half an inch long, with little spots all over him. Kind of like I
am right now - not small, but spotted! I have insect bites almost
everywhere - most of them dont itch, but its always the one on a knuckle
or toe that itch like mad all night long. We saw a good many toucans
and strange plants with odd fruit of different colors. I waited till
Abel ate first before trying, but they were always good - or at least
interesting. Not like grubs. I am still a bit amazed that I actually
ate those things!

On the last night at Yachana, I decided to have a beer with supper..
The food here is pretty normal - eggs, meat, chicken, lots of veggies
and fruit and bread too. Some things are cooked differently but at all
times, we knew what was in them. They way they cooked the stinging
nettles was interesting though - tasted tart and round almost. Nice.
That first beer went down very well, so I got another to take back to
the cabin with me. And there I lay with daylight almost gone, the river
rushing by, in my very own hammock sipping a good cool one. I must say
it put a rosy touch to the world, that second one did. It helped pass
the evening in a really pleasant way, with frogs and birds croaking and
chirping, the occasional guava hitting the ground somewhere, somehow
important things just faded gently away into the night. Very, very nice
way to end my time there. Abel came around to bring me some tape to try
to fix my bag where they cut it - no success, but we chatted for a while
- it was really interesting to hear about the culture of the Amazon area
and how kids grow up around here. They still have arranged marriages,
although more people are fighting against it now. So many cultural
differences and yet the Ecuadorias have the same dreams as we all do. I
was good to have the time to talk apart from the 'tour time' - I learned
a lot.

When I finally lay down to sleep, I felt really good....... no no, not
just because of the beer, but because I felt good about what I am
accomplishing with myself and I feel good about who I am and where I am
in my head. I have loved each and every moment here, the thoughts, the
learning and the experiences.

It has all been so good for me so far and I am not even half way through
yet! :)

After packing up my bags, I was a little sad to be leaving but also
excited about the next stage of this journey. During this week, I found
that when I feel something strongly, if I just be quiet for a moment,
not long, and just toss it around in my mind, it finds its rightful
place and the world is right again. Well, last night I did just
this....... I sat on the edge of the one bed - yeah, I had three beds in
the new cabana!... anyway, I sat with my eyes closed, a clear mind and
let things fall into place. That worked just fine until one of those
water cricket things that look like a grasshopper on a steriods plopped
right onto my hand. Now THAT cleared my mind!

This really has become so much more of an inner journey for me than just
going to these wonderful places. I am learning so much about me, my
strengths and weaknesses and am especially finding my spark again, my
laughter and joy in everything around me.

And so this morning we had breakfast without our guide, Abel, he had
gone to pick up a tour group 4 hours upriver in Coca. While we were
saying our goodbyes to the staff there, our luggage was loaded into the
canoe and way too soon it was time to head to the bus, about half and
hour in the same direction as Coca. What a lovely ride that was. I so
love being on the canoes, wind blowing in my hair and ......its just
lovely and free.

Once we were in the bus - me with my bag firmly on my lap this time and
my passport and rest of my money snugly up against my belly, (very well
hidden, Dad! :)) I looked at some of the photos still on the camera
card. Well, next thing there my eyes started leaking and my throat
closed tighter than when it saw those grubs heading down. I could not
help it - I bawled quietly. Fortunately only Lucia noticed, but it was
quite a surprise to me. I stopped looking and carried on taking photos
of the passing scenery. Sometimes I am aware that I use the camera as a
shield between me and 'real life'. Today was one of the now rare times I
did this.

The bus filled up to almost beyond capacity. Young and old, almost
every woman either carrying a babe in arms or expecting one, or both.
They were all pleasant to each other, all respectful I loved hearing the
cacophony of the combination of babies crying, people talking from the
front to the back of the bus, the laughter and the ever present
over-loud music - cha cha style. It was sort of like a moving carnival.
I found it incredibly relaxing and I even dozed off for a few
minutes, much to Lucia's amusement.

I noticed that most of the houses here, well, out of the main city area,
still have leaves for their roofs so I asked about that. Those leaf
roofs take a lot of work to put up - hundreds of leaves that are
harvested from the jungle by hand with a panga, prepared and then
individually put up....... many days/weeks of work. But they last 20
years! The tin roofs only last 6 - 10 years.

Also, here in Ecuador you HAVE to vote. When you go and vote, you are
give a piece of paper, like a receipt that proves you have, and all is
good. If you dont vote, then next time you go to get any official
paperwork, you first have to pay the non-voting fine before you get your
papers. I think its a brilliant idea!

We arrived in Tena (pronounced Ten-ah) at around midday, dropped the
bags off at the same hotel we were at before, checked that the bags full
of pencils and goodies were still here - they are - and headed to the
place to book a tour for me while I am here. Lucia went back to Quito
for the weekend, so I am going on an overnight trip to the waterfalls,
caves, tubing, canoeing, sleeping at the house of an Amazonian family
and will see too many things for my tired brain to remember. I leave at
8am on Saturday and will be back on Sunday evening. All my stuff stays
here in the hotel - apart from the obvious, of course - that will still
be snugly up inside my shirt. The tour I am on will take me from Tena to
Santa Rosa, on to Pimpilala, Talag, Jatunyaku and Iluculin. It looks
and sounds like an amazing trip.

So Lucia left me in the tour offices, about half an hour walk from the
hotel. Well, now I HAD to find my way 'home". And I did. I came and
got my camera and went walking again - down to the river where I was
hoping to get a canoe across to see the wildlife center, but the guy was
not there - so after sitting on the big stones along the rivers edge for
a while , enjoying the cool breeze wafting around, I gave that up and
just ambled around the town. I found a little restaurant to grab
something to eat - boy was it great. Chicken and rice and good old
fashioned chips like they did in the olden days! And I watched the
people go by. Everyone seemed to be out... walking and riding scooters,
catching yellow taxis, jay walking or simply chatting. What a lovely
relaxed atmosphere! I walked around town for about three hours
altogether and then my feet said no more. I paid, in Spanish, and
bought a beer to take back to my room with me. Just one. And am about
ready to call it a night. The lights around town have all come on, the
shops are closing. I am about 40 steps up off the road and have a great
view. Yup - around forty steps to climb each time I leave this room.

So..... I will be away from Tena tomorrow and Sunday, back here for the
night on Sunday and will have internet (hopefully, if it does not rain,
if the generators are on and it the little kiddo in house number 62
behaves - or so it seems). Then off to Sinchi Warmi on Monday morning.
Its almost the same bus ride - about three hours in the same direction
until we get to the Napo River, then we turn left. Now you know where I
am for the next week? Good!

Just one more word before I close this chapter.... cold showers.....very
cold showers. I swear all that water runs through freezers first before
it gets to my shower! Yeah, I can hear you chuckling.... Its almost as
hard to hurl myself under that falling water as it was to swallow those
grubs.. I can see those grubs are going to become a measurement of
sorts to me. I will never slip up on paying my electric bill........
ever! The only time to take a cold shower is when I have done
everything I need to for the day, the sheets are turned down and I can
run and just right under those covers and shiver myself warm again.

I am going to try to attach a couple of photos to this email - have to
make them smaller first and not sure if you will be able to get them....
if not - I will post photos from home. The internet here just does not
cope with more than just standard email it seems. One is of me shoot an
arrow with a blow pipe, the other me on a wheelbarrow with Abel pushing,
The Shaman and the sunset of last night - this was the view from the
outside dining room.

Here's to a wonderful week gone by that is firmly embedded in my mind
and heart........ and on to a new adventure.

Love and light
Anje








--
www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

e - Grubs and the Shaman

I am sitting on my private little porch in shorts and t-shirt, feet
propped up on the hammock, watching the Napo River waft on by and
listening to the toucans and other birds chirp and screech in the trees
right above me. Its glorious. The hardest thing to do here is to try
to remember all the things I have seen and done! So much happens in one
day, even when sitting quietly right here.

I did not sleep well for some reason on Tuesday night so I asked to be
moved to a different room - one much closer to the main center.. I felt
quite out on a limb in the other room and was obviously not comfortable
even in my sleep. So, here I am in this lovely room - much happier and
slept like a log last night:)

Yesterday when we were walking through the forest we found a termite
nest withing reach of the ground. Abel pushed in a couple of places
making a happy face while the termites came screaming out of there to
see what was happening. Apparently, squished termites are an insect
repellant. So, yes, I just had to try it and put my hand up on the nest
sort of cringing at the site of what felt like millions of those little
insects swarming onto my hand and arm. When my hand was almost black
with termites, I shook it quickly and squished the rest onto my arms. I
cant really say if it worked because I was not getting insect bitten in
the first place - thanks Karen and Cathy for the oils!

A termites nest is a big oval/round shaped structure formed on the side
of a tree. The nest is entirely made of termite poop, which I was only
told after I stuck my hand on it! They also make little covered tunnels
from the ground to the nest all the way up the tree, to protect
themselves from the sun and other predators. Makes one look at things
slightly differently.

Everywhere you look here are beautiful flowers, the houses are so basic
and very few have paint but they always have a beautiful array of
flowers around and of course, in every flower is at least one insect.
The grasshoppers that I see in some of the flowers have the most
incredible irridiscent green coloring with black markings and yellow
dots on the end of their feelers. Weird but beautiful.

Yesterday, Wednesday, we started off the day with a visit across the
river to the Yachana Reserve. There they had waiting a ..........it was
not a truck nor a pickup nor a bus really - bus something of a mixture
of them all. A high flatbed truck with chairs on the top for a better
view. So in we piled and drove through a couple of small communities -
as in one or two houses worth, and then deeper into the forest. This
was on a very narrow one-vehicle dirt road. But yes, there were some big
trucks coming the other way and somehow they made it work. Yachana
Lodge is building another lodge across the river from this one so there
is much construction going on. They do not build in the Primary Forest
(old original forest), but only in the Secondary areas and because they
want to keep the 'footprint' down, they keep the roads narrow, dirt and
almost not taken care of. Trucks going up and down the road kept the
trees and shrubs cut back well.

Anyway - after a little while and stopping to see some monkeys and
toucans and other birds, we hopped off and started a 2 hour walk through
the jungle. Wow, I just know I left about 5 pounds of fat spread on the
jungle floor! Talk about hot and humid and slick and slippery and
beautiful, rich green, dripping with a gentle earthy smell wafting
everywhere. We seemed to go up more hills than down and either way made
for very difficult walking because of the layers and layers of wet
rotting leaves and the very slick tree roots buried just below them. It
really was a lovely walk though - along the way we saw a 'herd' of
peccary, but they stayed well hidden so that my camera could not get
them, toucan screeched overhead and there were many other birds that I
really dont remember their names. One bird here makes a sound like a
drop of water.... I dont know how else to describe it... We saw little
frogs and I have discovered that apparently I have an interest in fungi
- I find myself stopping, stooping and clicking away at the endless
designs and colors of them. Some are huge and others just pinpricks of
dotted over an area.

Just when I thought that it was now enough and I would be happy to just
go and sit in the little stream we sploshed through what felt like miles
back, we heard human voices again - and we got spat out of the jungle
onto a very long straight dirt road - and there was one of the most
beautiful things I had seen in almost two hours - that truck with
seats!! It was glorious to sit and have the wind dry the sweat
from.............. well everywhere while we headed back to the river.

I wanted to swim across - its not that wide here - about 100 feet, but
Abel said no and definitely not without a life jacket. And the canoe
did not have one in it this time........ the lodge was literally
directly across from where we were. I was a little disappointed, but I
know that there was a good reason. And there was. When we got to the
other side, I was literally covered in mud from the jungle walk, hot and
sweaty and needed to cool off. So off came my boots and socks, watch
and camera and, with Abel's permission - I swam right next to the river
bank. I was surprised at just how strong the current was and at one
point was swimming as hard as I could, getting absolutely nowhere.
Fortunately I was right next to the canoe and grabbed on, pulling myself
back to the steps up to the lodge, where Abel was sitting with a big
smile on his face and said "I was right, no?" Yeah, yeah, he was
right. It was a lovely cool off, but would definitely not try to swim
here on my own. That 'gentle' water is very deceptive.

And then off to cooking class! I was not excited about this at
all............ I was met at the cooking hut by a very big walking
stick insect that I got to hold for a few minutes. He reached from my
wrist to my elbow. And then we wrapped fish in jungle leaves, added
some spices with names I will never remember, tied them up with jungle
fiber and put it on the fire. And then there was a little package -
something wrapped in leaves and tied off............but I could here
that there was movement. Abel opened it up and there were three of the
biggest, most disgusting, squirming grubs I have ever seen. They had
black (yeah, take not of "had") snouts and moved as only grubs can move
- they were about as long as my index finger and about as fat as two of
my fingers put together. The question was asked of me: "Do you want
one?" "No", was not my answer............. "hell no!" was!!!

And so Abel ate one. Alive! It crunched and scrunched while the cook
looked very amused at Lucia and my expressions. I thought I would throw
up right there and then! I have never wished that someone stop chewing
as quickly as I did then. Apparently this is normal, acceptable food,
raw and all. Shudder. When finally managed to pull myself away from
watching the destruction of that horrible grub, I saw that the cook was
pushing a stick through the other two grubs. Uh oh. He skewered them
neatly, broke their skin or whatever grubs have, and onto the fire they
went. This was not looking good to me at all! After way too short a
time, the grubs were declared cooked and yup, we were offered them
again. Lucia said he had had them before so would leave them for
me...... I found out afterwards that she did not like them, or the idea,
at all.

And so there I stood with four people looking expectantly at me with
laughter and daring in their eyes. So I did the only thing possible - I
ran like hell! NO no no..... I reached out and took one well cooked,
still disgusting grub and ate the flippen thing - black snout and all!
The taste was not bad, it was just what was going on in my mind seemed
to communicate with my stomach and push the bile almost over the top. I
made my mind a total blank and chewed, crunched and seriously struggled
to swallow - but I would be darned if I was going to throw up! And I
ate the second one too. Of course I was nowhere near a toothbrush or
acid to clean it all off, but a good few glasses of water, along with
many shudders seemed to do the trick. I am glad I ate them, now I never
ever have to wonder about it or do it again! I swear I was still
picking grub from my teeth hours later! yuck.

Soon after that we were served lunch with the fish we had wrapped -
thankfully no sign of any more grubs.

Spanish lessons followed. I find them very frustrating because I forget
many words, but as of the end of today, I can actually understand what
most people are saying around here - just am not yet able to speak it
properly. Writing Spanish is also no problem most of the time.

Today....... well, today was another full day. Breakfast was a bit
later than normal and our visit to one of the local homes was also a bit
delayed. Not long though. We canoe'd across the river and then walked
along this narrow dirt road for about an hour and a half. Abel had
picked us oranges and the three of us threw them at each other, did
tricks with them and generally had fun while walking. It was not too
hot at all and also interesting to see all the bird life around.

The house we went to was that of the local Shaman. The garden was full
of interesting and colorful plants and flowers, just not like a garden
in the US or anywhere. Here, they are all grown up, no lawns or
anything - just a self made pathway where one needs to walk. The house
was terribly basic, nothing wasted on the looks of the place at all.
There are no windows or doors and on the one room that the Shaman used,
the 'door' was a small bench that he moved when he went in and moved
again to 'close the door' when he came back out.

He was a very very interesting looking character of about 72 years old.
He had beads and threaded hair and a face that I would have loved to
take photos of all day long. His wife and child sat quietly to one side
while our guide, Abel, told us about his work and the area. Abel
chatted quietly to the Shaman and then I was asked to take off my
............ no no! My camera and my glasses and go and sit on a
different bench with my hands face upwards. The little benches are
simply a plank of wood on two very short stumps, so when we sat on them
our knees were higher than our hips. Anyway - so there I sat, hands and
knees up, butt down with my eyes closed, just waiting. Yes, I did peek...

The Shaman came over with some leaves tied at the one end and started
'washing me' with them while emitting a low almost growl and blowing
smoke all over me. It did not smell like smoke at all and the way he
was brushing me with those leaves was as if he was trying to get rid of
the bad stuff from inside me. It was not rough of invasive at all -
just interesting. I calmed myself all the way down, relaxed totally and
enjoyed. Then he took the leaves and sort of shook them over the
railing of the building - yes I peeked again. He shook those leaves
like there really was stuff collected in them and then came back and
literally changed his tune to a high pitched, yet gentle whining sound -
like keening almost. He wafted those leaves all over me for a while
again, and the smoke and then deemed me cleansed. It was a very
interesting process but I still feel sticky and sweaty and am hoping
that the inner cleansing will show in ways still to come.

Then it was on to shooting those tiny arrows out of a blowgun thing.....
a very very long pipe made from a hardwood tree in the forest. Abel
went first and of course hit the pawpaw on a stick he was aiming at.
Then it was my turn and bingo! I hit it too! WOw. But on second and
third try - nothing. Ah well - at least I got one :)

TIme to head out again and the long walk to the river again, this time
with no oranges - we had eaten them on the porch of the shaman. We were
not far down the road when a huge big yellow construction truck came
barrelling around the corner right at us. We quickly stepped back into
the brush and Abel stuck out his hand. They stopped, so in we climbed -
all 16 foot up, just kidding, but it felt like it, and off we went. The
front window of the truck had multiple cracks in it - all over the
place. There are no dashboard.... well anything - just a tangle of
wires and more wires, but boy did that thing move! The side windows
were also long gone and it did not matter that our boots were totally
covered in fresh mud - the truck was already full of it!. Apparently
that truck is one of them that is considered in good condition still.
It was a disturbingly quick trip back to the river by truck!

And across the river we went again. I went to clean up in my new room
and catch up on some Spanish learning - lessons were on for most of the
afternoon. Supper is waiting for me on this last night here in
Yachana. I am SO not ready to leave here and was extremely fortunate to
be handed the most glorious sunset of the week. I could hear my camera
singing.

Tomorrow morning we head back to Tena for the weekend. I am not sure
whether I will be alone there or not. Lucia probably has to go back to
Quito at least for one day - but might be back on Friday night or
Saturday morning. Not sure yet. I am hoping to go on a couple of tours
while there. Monday next week we get back on the bus and head to Sinchi
Warmi.

Its been a fantastic week here - ending way too soon, just when I am
getting comfortable around here. Ah well.

Till the next chapter
Love and light
Annie






--
www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

d - Kapok trees and Tarantulas

Last night I left my boots outside, and yes, open on the top so when I went out this morning I stood and looked at them for about a minute thinking about all the jungle things that could have found a home in them over the past 8 hours or so.  A few times my hand reached into the first boot and was quickly yanked out, sweaty palmed but not in any way weather related.   I was very happy that there was no one else around!  Then I shook the boots, and shook them some more and banged them together as if I wanted to kill - and I did, if it was in there.  This sounded a bit like jungle drums, so before I could get any reaction from that - I screwed up my face really really tight and reached all three miles into that boot to feel for any furry 'thangs'.  Fortunately there was nothing, but I decided that I would rather get bitten on my foot than my hand so simply put them both on my feet.....while holding my breath at the same time.  I  wont do that again!

So, this morning, after breakfast  had in the outside lounge - there is no inside lounge :), found us on the river in the early almost cool air – looking, and finding some really interesting birds, but even better – hiking through jungle growth with so much to see in the mess of plants growing.. In one place the guide, Abel, picked up what looked like long dried beans – about a foot and a half in length, he cracked it open and offered us the white stuff that was inside – Jungle ice cream! Sure enough it was cool and sweet, but made of fibers and chewy at the same time. Interesting, to say the least.  I had seconds - and Abel said they dont come in chocolate flavor.  Ah well, cant have it all.  There are hard wood trees here that are cool... so when we get overheated from all the hiking - we simply go and hug a hardwood tree!  Its amazing!  I had been looking at some gorgeous white flowers all along the roads and rivers these past couple of days and finally found them on our hike this morning. They are a weed.  But the flower smells just like jasmine!  I carried a few of those flowers for a good long way.

There are so many types of fungus growing everywhere – from bright orange to almost see through white. Some of the fungus look simply beautiful and incredibly delicate,  are perfectly formed shapes while others just look like a mess of stuff, all happily growing wherever it can.  New trees sprout from stones, old trees and anywhere in between. In most places the jungle growth is so thick there is no ways you can see the sky and the ground is covered in a mix of old, dead trees, leaves and fruit from the plants. Sometimes it makes for slippery walking, so great concentration is necessary, but that means I can look around less, so with me its rather a slow hike with my head swinging one way and another as we go, but thats the way I like it.  Almost everywhere you look is a spiders web - some insanely big and others tight-knit with mama spider hanging out patiently right int he middle of it all.

After the bird hike this morning, we headed a bit further up the river to see the biggest Kapok Tree. Yup, it deserves upper case letters. That thing was incredible! There are all sorts of other plants and trees growing from this almost 300 year old tree and it burst through the normal jungle canopy to stand tall and very wide in a beautifully blue sky.  It really was a magnificient sight.  Abel took a photo of me next to that tree and when I looked quickly at the photos this evening, I could hardly see myself standing there - it really is an incredible tree.

After getting back to the lodge, I was going to have Spanish lessons, but was asked if I would rather go and see a giant tarantula up in the forest..... What a question!  I quickly grabbed my camera and hopped into my boots without a thought and away we went.  There are steps made so that we can get up the hills around here, but they are not steps as we know them.  They are made of wood and what does wood do in the jungle especially with a continuous flow of rotting leaves on top of it?  Yup, it creates pre-rot stage a slippery surface with moss and fungus that really dont help walking - even in boots.  So it was an interesting climb up. iIts not a good move to grab the handrail either - apparently those ants who's bite really is worse than its bark, love hanging out on those rails.  I have been told that if that ant bites you, you will be in really really bad pain for about three days.  I tried not to touch that railing. Tried, and fortunately did not meet a mean ant.   Its beautifully quiet in the forest.  There is a continual calling of hundreds of insects and birds, but somehow its still peaceful and quiet.  Anyway, the tarantula did not want to play so we will try again tomorrow.

I was on the way back to my cabin when Abel called after me and asked if I wanted to go tubing on the Napo River.  YEAH!!!!  So, off with the boots, on with the swimsuit and shorts and waterproof camera!  I had not tubed in a gazillion years and to do so in the Napo - wonderful.  And it was.  The lodge's canoe took us a good few miles up river, dropped us overboard and we gently floated downstream.  In places the water was almost whitewater and we bounced around in the tubes while being carted downriver at quite a clip.  It was lovely.  I swam separate from the tubes as well - and at one point hooked my ankles over the tube and got dragged along while floating with even my ears underwater..... its hard to explain just how free it feels here.  I know it would be different if I lived here, but boy am I enjoying it now.

And finally it was time for lunch with a view again.  I cant wait to show you the photos of this view - it really is amazing.  After lunch it was time for Spanish lessons.  I quietly groaned, I quietly bitched about having to learn and for the first few minutes I felt totally lost, again.  After about an hour I found myself writing full sentences, understanding words and that felt so good too!   Now just to remember what words mean so that I can speak it and not only write.  But I am improving and it was interesting to feel that spark of learning wake up again, to find that I was enjoying it and actually getting much of it right!

Lucia taught me for about three hours, all the while having that view of the river.  Every now and again a canoe would go by or some people would be out fishing and up would come the camera, click, click and then back to the lesson.

Tonight we went of another walk in the forest - we found three different kinds of frogs, two HUGE bull frogs, a couple of Amazonian water snakes and the biggest snail I have ever seen!  It was bigger than my hand and bright orange!  And............. we found a tarantula!  I did not get to hold this one - he ran away into his hole, but not before we got a good few photos.  Lucia was really not liking the idea of that spider and I felt her clutching the back of my shirt very tightly

The Yachana Lodge is nestled into the jungle and overlooks the Napo River.  All the roofs are thatch as well as all the railings around the lodge.  There is a pathway that connects where the canoes land to the main buildings, like the office, lounge, bar and so on, and the cabins are spread around all over the place.  I got cabin #1.  It is as far away from anything as one can get, which entails a good three minute walk, quicker at night time, to get from the main office to my cabin.  There are a good many of the staff walking to and fro almost all the time and it seems as if my guide has taken to walking me home at night.  Poor man.

The internet works when the generators are on and no one seems to know at what times the generators will come on again.  And then there is only one wire so .....well, you get the picture.  Hot water here is on tap - as much as I want..... but for now I am looking for those cold showers!  It so hot here that no menopausal hot flushes stand a chance or could even be noticed!  I am in a sweat at all times.  I wake up in the night hot despite no blankets - the fan is off because the generators apparently don't stay on at night....... so its muggy that the book I write in during the day has soft half soggy pages.  The window gauze does not keep out many insects at all and the doors - well, the kinda, sorta meet in the middle which makes for no sense to even bother locking them when I am out.  Its strange, but even though this all sounds like complaints - its not.  I find myself smiling while typing this and I really dont mind any of it at all.  A shower cools me off between walkabouts, switching off the light seems to make the bugs go away and no fan can beat the feeling of rushing down or up river in that canoe!  So.......all is good.  Muy Bueno!

So right now I am sitting here with only very weak solar powered lights behind my head, which is really not a great thing because insects ............... yes, like the light!!  I would love a glass of wine or a beer, but forgot to get one before to came home and am not going to walk there again tonight.  The crickets, frogs and a gazillion other critters are holding long conversations outside.  Hopefully they are not all plotting to snuggle up with me tonight!  Last night I had to get rid of some critters before going to sleep and one particularly large grasshopper looking thing kept finding its way back inside.........

And I am one seriously happy and lucky and fortunate and blessed and smiling lady!

Till next time
Hasta Manana
Annie

--   www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

c - Quito to Tena and into the Jungle

I am not sure that this one actually sent - internet is very iffy from here.  So here it is again - just in case. 

Wow - what a couple of days this has been!

After a restless nights sleep in the Hotel in Quito, suspiciously eyeing the inch high gap under the door to my room, hissing in frustration of only cold water in this hotel, the absolute lack of English spoken anywhere and no internet and being overtired....... well, lets just say that I needed to sleep.  The blankets were like solid sheep and sooo snuggly warm - lovely :)

I woke up ready to head out and see what there was to see.  So out I popped of the big gate at the front of the hotel onto the most beautiful walkway.  Whichever way I looked, there was some old interesting building to be seen.  Cathedral Spires called me from blocks away and off I went.  But first I took a photo of the name of the road that the hotel was in and also the buildings on the corners of that street.  Now I knew I would not get lost - smart right?  No, I did not get lost! I really was thinking smart and it worked too :) 

Being Sunday, there were very few cars around and a good many cyclists.  Many of the roads were blocked and I am sure they had something going on in the town square - when I was leaving to head back to the hotel, drums and microphones were being unpacked - I was sorry that I did not have to time to see what that was about.  I snuck into a couple of the Cathedrals and stood listening to their services - just beautiful and so full of Ceremony and sincere people - it really was lovely.  I walked around for about two hours, just enjoying the lovely weather, the absolutely amazing buildings and the friendliness of everyone. 

I was being picked up by my Spanish teacher at 11am, so had limited time to spare.  After deciding to head back 'home', I passed a small cafe that was just putting out its fruit bowls on display....... one step, two step and reverse.  For $1.50 I was handed this bowl full of amazing fruit and dug in immediately.  About half way through I remembered some warnings about eating fruit...... yeah, yeah - I can hear you all!  So I only had a couple more pieces and left the rest.  All is well, I was not 'infected' from that fruit.  Fortunately, because 5 hours in a bus is a very very long time when needing the bathroom!

Lucia met me on time, we had to walk to the taxi a couple of blocks away because of the closed roads, but handled it ok with us doing a shuttle thing to get all four bags to the taxi.  They do not roll on cobblestone streets,so we could only take one at a time.  Talk about a workout!  Those bags were 50lbs each and I swear they gained weight along the way!

It was becoming more obvious that I am out of my comfort zone here and a good many times the words "what have you DONE!!??" flitted through my mind - but that feeling only lasted a couple of seconds and soon I found another good feeling, something interesting and special to see.  I booked this trip knowing I would be out of my comfort zone, not speak the language and be doing things differently than ever before. I ASKED for this - and I am not going to beat myself over the head for getting exactly what I wanted.......... besides, I am really really enjoying it all.

Ok. So after a long and very harrowing taxi drive to the bus station - the taxi driver was falling asleep and driving way too fast and there were no seat belts and and and..... well, we got there in one piece.  Fortunately there was not a long wait for the bus, so on we hopped and off we went.  That bus chugged soooo slooowly up the hills, around the corners and I wondered if this would be the longest trip of all!  But then things changed, we cleared through many little towns where people would hop on the bus and try to sell fruit or icecream or other made items - there were very few takers, but this happened regularly. In many of these little towns it was quite common to see four people to a motorbike/scooter!  The kids seemed especially happy about these rides.

The speed of the bus and the scenery changed pretty soon and we were screaming through the most beautiful countryside, being flung left to right and the tires even squealed once or twice on this tiny road with no sidewalk.  Sometimes we wondered if we could count the g-force of forward motion as he accelerated and bounced in our seats when the brakes were applied too forcefully and the whole bus shuddered its way to a grinding halt just short of whatever it needed to.  We did not hit anything, so I assume that he got it right.

Then on came a football game, and the drivers helper put the volume up to distortion level and then played deaf for about an hour!  Lucia went to ask them to turn it down, which he finally did - but just a hair.  I opened the window and hung myself out of there to get some relief.  It was with a general huge sigh of relief from everyone that the game ended and the tv was put off.

We drove over many little streams that were nestled between stunning shades of lush greens and plant variety that is almost impossible to imagine.  And then a huge bridge would appear - only one car width with wooden planks, and over we would go - me firmly holding my breath while clicking away with Gypsey.

And then....... and then I noticed that all my paperwork was gone, with my money, credit cards, drivers license etc etc.  Also, they got the little bag thingy that I kept my extra camera battery in as well as some camera cards.  My house keys and the keys I locked my extra 'donation luggage' up with has also been taken.  I think this was all.  It was my fault.  I put my bag on the floor and held it with my leg against the side of the bus.  Some guys behind me slit the side facing backwards and ever so gently took what they needed.  I am SO happy that my passport was not in there, that my camera was in my hand and that I had been carrying most of the money I had, on me, not in my bag.  But what a horrible feeling that was! I probably need to let the airline know too - my return flights were in there too.

We discovered this about 30 minutes before getting to Tena (pronounced Ten-ah, which made for a very frustrating rest of the ride.  But I was determined not to let it ruin this trip.  So I took more photos and make a mental list of what was gone.  By the time we (Lucia and I) got to Tena, I realized that I needed my cr crd numbers - so we had to walk a good way to an internet place where I signed on to email and discovered that everyone was worried about me not being able to contact at all!  Oh what a mess!  I quickly called Kate and Steven and assured them that I was ok and then told them about losing my stuff.  THANK you Sis and Steven for sorting it all out for me!  I really appreciate you getting it done so fast..... and sorry for worrying you all with the lack of contact after I arrived - I just could not help it at all, but still hate that you were all left hanging for that long.

And so we spent the night in Tena.  It was a lovely evening - after finding out that the local police could do nothing for me, we decided to go and get something to eat and then take a walk around.  The hotel is in a lovely area of the town and everyone seemed to be strolling around - it felt so comfortable and relaxing.  People were just ambling around, over the bridges in town, down and up the roads, buying fruit and veggies and ....well, it was a quiet experience, mixed in with fantastic smells of fresh produce, brewing coffee and many many smiles along the way.

Lucia speaks about as much English as I speak Spanish, so communicating is very slow going - but I am learning and so is she and we get on very well and have many laughs.  I just cannot hear her over the noise of the bus, so lessons while riding are not an option for me. 

Back to the hotel, discovering only cold showers - again, I did a super quick wash down, sprayed lots of good smelling stuff and hit the bed. I bounced!  Yep, that bed was like planks and the pillows were about three feet thick. Really? People can sleep like that?  So I took the rather small bath towell, folded it up inside one of the pillow cases and slept. Oh wait - I found an internet conmnection in the hotel and has some wonderful minutes on FB with Kate and on email too.  Balm for my soul...

Ok - wrap up time...... I woke up early, packed up quickly and off we dragged only two bags this time. The other two will stay in Tena till I go to the next place next week.  We got on the bus, met our guide, Abel who is very sweet and headed on down the road for another four hours of bouncing, screeching brakes and absolutely fascinating countryside!  The trees grew up around here! They fill the skies and the birds have there long nests hanging from the branches.  The nests look rather like a sock filled with a tennis ball and hung up.  The jungle got thicker and thicker and the road narrower as we went on.  That made for some close calls when I had my shoulder and camera out of the window to see what there was to see.  I learned to move really fast!

I sat further back than Abel and Lucia at a window that would open and it was very interesting, careening down this seemingly endless little dirt road, almost boxed in by Jungle growth, with no one I really knew and almost no English spoken.  It was a very good, very free and not at all uncomfortable feeing at all.  And then we came to the Napo River.  What a view!  Just glorious, with its light grey muddy rivers, low waters and rushing sound....  aaaah - it felt good to see her again!

There were many little houses and communities along the way today (Monday) All with thatch roof, many built with wide planks and really really basic in structure.  Many had lovely colorful plants growing all around with guava and pawpaw trees everywhere.  The varieties of flowers is sometimes simply breathtaking.  There are splashes of color eveywhere, backed by incredibly lush green of the jungle growth, towered over by humongeous trees that seem to have perfect shaped canopies every time!  Just beautiful.

And so we arrived at the little port where the road stopped and the river waited for us.  But there was a huge storm headed our way and the guide said we were going to wait till it passed.  And we did.  We had lunch and tried to keep away from the seriously leaking roof of the open air eatery while the thunder and lightening made even the guide shudder!

And then onto the river in that long canoe again - we skuttled up the river, or rather down the river, slowing down when the water was barely deep enough for us.  This is a fiberglass canoe which apparently can turn over in a storm because of the canopy it has to keep some of the rain out.  I was glad we waited out the storm on solid land - it was not dry land at all.

After a relatively short ride, not even half an hour, to my great disappointment. there I saw the lodge with its thatch roof, nestled deeply in the jungle growth!  Oh wow.  It looked lovely. And it is. I have a room to myself, pretty much on one end of the lodge premises, all lit up with little lights along all the paths..  I have found a few critters in my room already buy they seem harmless so far.  There are no windows, just mesh, so sitting here at 10pm typing this with only solar powered low lights and the sounds flitting around outside is..... I struggle to find a word for it.....  soothing, gentle, dark, imaginary, peaceful, have I said dark, already?  Well, something just landed with a thud in the bathroom - wait!  Ok, that door is closed for the night!  And I.will. not.get.out.of.bed.in.the.dark!

We got here around lunchtime today, did a walkaround lesson while looking at the school, had lunch,went for a walk in the rain and found a lovely multicolored froglet - the yellow dotted something or other poison dart frog.  Apparently it is 33 times more poisonous than a lethal dose of morphine.  No, I did not touch it.  We walked up what felt like a gazillion steps to find the most beautiful view of the Rio Napo.  It was well worth it and I was just a tad surprised that his almost-old lady actually managed it without a problem :)

Another official "sit down and learn" Spanish lesson was had and then I had had enough.  I needed to get word back home that I really am ok, and that the rain messed with the internet connection and not to expect as much contact as I had hoped for.  I had a very small, very short lived wobbly moment - but those moments have no chance of growing in a place like this!  Its just beautiful with winding paths, lush green plants, strange vines and gorgeous flowers everywhere.. And after dinner, Abel found a satellite phone for me to call Kate - goooood!  Thanks again sis and everyone that ran around sorting out my mess for me!  Then later on we found that only the wireless did not work so I got to connect for a few minutes and get my email which I am now answering as well.

So. Tomorrow a new day starts with a fresh start - again. Me, Lucia (my Spanish Teach) and Abel (the guide) are literally the only guests at the lodge!  Not a soul other than us.  I am not sure whether I like it like this or not - but it is what it is - and so far its fabulous.  There are many things to keep me busy, many things planned and oh those SPanish lessons are trying SO hard not to stick in my brain!  I WILL learn some of it - I will.

And so, with many critters crittering away just outside the mesh, a meer foot or two from my bed, I will end this long email off.  I had to catch up or some things would never get written down.

Yes, I have many many photos already...and will hopefully get some uploaded from Tena on the weekend.

Till the next episode
love and light, g'night!
Annie

www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

--
Posted By Blogger to Amazon Jungle Travels at 11/27/2012 01:30:00 PM

c - Quito to Tena and into the Jungle

Wow - what a couple of days this has been!

After a restless nights sleep in the Hotel in Quito, suspiciously eyeing the inch high gap under the door to my room, hissing in frustration of only cold water in this hotel, the absolute lack of English spoken anywhere and no internet and being overtired....... well, lets just say that I needed to sleep.  The blankets were like solid sheep and sooo snuggly warm - lovely :)

I woke up ready to head out and see what there was to see.  So out I popped of the big gate at the front of the hotel onto the most beautiful walkway.  Whichever way I looked, there was some old interesting building to be seen.  Cathedral Spires called me from blocks away and off I went.  But first I took a photo of the name of the road that the hotel was in and also the buildings on the corners of that street.  Now I knew I would not get lost - smart right?  No, I did not get lost! I really was thinking smart and it worked too :) 

Being Sunday, there were very few cars around and a good many cyclists.  Many of the roads were blocked and I am sure they had something going on in the town square - when I was leaving to head back to the hotel, drums and microphones were being unpacked - I was sorry that I did not have to time to see what that was about.  I snuck into a couple of the Cathedrals and stood listening to their services - just beautiful and so full of Ceremony and sincere people - it really was lovely.  I walked around for about two hours, just enjoying the lovely weather, the absolutely amazing buildings and the friendliness of everyone. 

I was being picked up by my Spanish teacher at 11am, so had limited time to spare.  After deciding to head back 'home', I passed a small cafe that was just putting out its fruit bowls on display....... one step, two step and reverse.  For $1.50 I was handed this bowl full of amazing fruit and dug in immediately.  About half way through I remembered some warnings about eating fruit...... yeah, yeah - I can hear you all!  So I only had a couple more pieces and left the rest.  All is well, I was not 'infected' from that fruit.  Fortunately, because 5 hours in a bus is a very very long time when needing the bathroom!

Lucia met me on time, we had to walk to the taxi a couple of blocks away because of the closed roads, but handled it ok with us doing a shuttle thing to get all four bags to the taxi.  They do not roll on cobblestone streets,so we could only take one at a time.  Talk about a workout!  Those bags were 50lbs each and I swear they gained weight along the way!

It was becoming more obvious that I am out of my comfort zone here and a good many times the words "what have you DONE!!??" flitted through my mind - but that feeling only lasted a couple of seconds and soon I found another good feeling, something interesting and special to see.  I booked this trip knowing I would be out of my comfort zone, not speak the language and be doing things differently than ever before. I ASKED for this - and I am not going to beat myself over the head for getting exactly what I wanted.......... besides, I am really really enjoying it all.

Ok. So after a long and very harrowing taxi drive to the bus station - the taxi driver was falling asleep and driving way too fast and there were no seat belts and and and..... well, we got there in one piece.  Fortunately there was not a long wait for the bus, so on we hopped and off we went.  That bus chugged soooo slooowly up the hills, around the corners and I wondered if this would be the longest trip of all!  But then things changed, we cleared through many little towns where people would hop on the bus and try to sell fruit or icecream or other made items - there were very few takers, but this happened regularly. In many of these little towns it was quite common to see four people to a motorbike/scooter!  The kids seemed especially happy about these rides.

The speed of the bus and the scenery changed pretty soon and we were screaming through the most beautiful countryside, being flung left to right and the tires even squealed once or twice on this tiny road with no sidewalk.  Sometimes we wondered if we could count the g-force of forward motion as he accelerated and bounced in our seats when the brakes were applied too forcefully and the whole bus shuddered its way to a grinding halt just short of whatever it needed to.  We did not hit anything, so I assume that he got it right.

Then on came a football game, and the drivers helper put the volume up to distortion level and then played deaf for about an hour!  Lucia went to ask them to turn it down, which he finally did - but just a hair.  I opened the window and hung myself out of there to get some relief.  It was with a general huge sigh of relief from everyone that the game ended and the tv was put off.

We drove over many little streams that were nestled between stunning shades of lush greens and plant variety that is almost impossible to imagine.  And then a huge bridge would appear - only one car width with wooden planks, and over we would go - me firmly holding my breath while clicking away with Gypsey.

And then....... and then I noticed that all my paperwork was gone, with my money, credit cards, drivers license etc etc.  Also, they got the little bag thingy that I kept my extra camera battery in as well as some camera cards.  My house keys and the keys I locked my extra 'donation luggage' up with has also been taken.  I think this was all.  It was my fault.  I put my bag on the floor and held it with my leg against the side of the bus.  Some guys behind me slit the side facing backwards and ever so gently took what they needed.  I am SO happy that my passport was not in there, that my camera was in my hand and that I had been carrying most of the money I had, on me, not in my bag.  But what a horrible feeling that was! I probably need to let the airline know too - my return flights were in there too.

We discovered this about 30 minutes before getting to Tena (pronounced Ten-ah, which made for a very frustrating rest of the ride.  But I was determined not to let it ruin this trip.  So I took more photos and make a mental list of what was gone.  By the time we (Lucia and I) got to Tena, I realized that I needed my cr crd numbers - so we had to walk a good way to an internet place where I signed on to email and discovered that everyone was worried about me not being able to contact at all!  Oh what a mess!  I quickly called Kate and Steven and assured them that I was ok and then told them about losing my stuff.  THANK you Sis and Steven for sorting it all out for me!  I really appreciate you getting it done so fast..... and sorry for worrying you all with the lack of contact after I arrived - I just could not help it at all, but still hate that you were all left hanging for that long.

And so we spent the night in Tena.  It was a lovely evening - after finding out that the local police could do nothing for me, we decided to go and get something to eat and then take a walk around.  The hotel is in a lovely area of the town and everyone seemed to be strolling around - it felt so comfortable and relaxing.  People were just ambling around, over the bridges in town, down and up the roads, buying fruit and veggies and ....well, it was a quiet experience, mixed in with fantastic smells of fresh produce, brewing coffee and many many smiles along the way.

Lucia speaks about as much English as I speak Spanish, so communicating is very slow going - but I am learning and so is she and we get on very well and have many laughs.  I just cannot hear her over the noise of the bus, so lessons while riding are not an option for me. 

Back to the hotel, discovering only cold showers - again, I did a super quick wash down, sprayed lots of good smelling stuff and hit the bed. I bounced!  Yep, that bed was like planks and the pillows were about three feet thick. Really? People can sleep like that?  So I took the rather small bath towell, folded it up inside one of the pillow cases and slept. Oh wait - I found an internet conmnection in the hotel and has some wonderful minutes on FB with Kate and on email too.  Balm for my soul...

Ok - wrap up time...... I woke up early, packed up quickly and off we dragged only two bags this time. The other two will stay in Tena till I go to the next place next week.  We got on the bus, met our guide, Abel who is very sweet and headed on down the road for another four hours of bouncing, screeching brakes and absolutely fascinating countryside!  The trees grew up around here! They fill the skies and the birds have there long nests hanging from the branches.  The nests look rather like a sock filled with a tennis ball and hung up.  The jungle got thicker and thicker and the road narrower as we went on.  That made for some close calls when I had my shoulder and camera out of the window to see what there was to see.  I learned to move really fast!

I sat further back than Abel and Lucia at a window that would open and it was very interesting, careening down this seemingly endless little dirt road, almost boxed in by Jungle growth, with no one I really knew and almost no English spoken.  It was a very good, very free and not at all uncomfortable feeing at all.  And then we came to the Napo River.  What a view!  Just glorious, with its light grey muddy rivers, low waters and rushing sound....  aaaah - it felt good to see her again!

There were many little houses and communities along the way today (Monday) All with thatch roof, many built with wide planks and really really basic in structure.  Many had lovely colorful plants growing all around with guava and pawpaw trees everywhere.  The varieties of flowers is sometimes simply breathtaking.  There are splashes of color eveywhere, backed by incredibly lush green of the jungle growth, towered over by humongeous trees that seem to have perfect shaped canopies every time!  Just beautiful.

And so we arrived at the little port where the road stopped and the river waited for us.  But there was a huge storm headed our way and the guide said we were going to wait till it passed.  And we did.  We had lunch and tried to keep away from the seriously leaking roof of the open air eatery while the thunder and lightening made even the guide shudder!

And then onto the river in that long canoe again - we skuttled up the river, or rather down the river, slowing down when the water was barely deep enough for us.  This is a fiberglass canoe which apparently can turn over in a storm because of the canopy it has to keep some of the rain out.  I was glad we waited out the storm on solid land - it was not dry land at all.

After a relatively short ride, not even half an hour, to my great disappointment. there I saw the lodge with its thatch roof, nestled deeply in the jungle growth!  Oh wow.  It looked lovely. And it is. I have a room to myself, pretty much on one end of the lodge premises, all lit up with little lights along all the paths..  I have found a few critters in my room already buy they seem harmless so far.  There are no windows, just mesh, so sitting here at 10pm typing this with only solar powered low lights and the sounds flitting around outside is..... I struggle to find a word for it.....  soothing, gentle, dark, imaginary, peaceful, have I said dark, already?  Well, something just landed with a thud in the bathroom - wait!  Ok, that door is closed for the night!  And I.will. not.get.out.of.bed.in.the.dark!

We got here around lunchtime today, did a walkaround lesson while looking at the school, had lunch,went for a walk in the rain and found a lovely multicolored froglet - the yellow dotted something or other poison dart frog.  Apparently it is 33 times more poisonous than a lethal dose of morphine.  No, I did not touch it.  We walked up what felt like a gazillion steps to find the most beautiful view of the Rio Napo.  It was well worth it and I was just a tad surprised that his almost-old lady actually managed it without a problem :)

Another official "sit down and learn" Spanish lesson was had and then I had had enough.  I needed to get word back home that I really am ok, and that the rain messed with the internet connection and not to expect as much contact as I had hoped for.  I had a very small, very short lived wobbly moment - but those moments have no chance of growing in a place like this!  Its just beautiful with winding paths, lush green plants, strange vines and gorgeous flowers everywhere.. And after dinner, Abel found a satellite phone for me to call Kate - goooood!  Thanks again sis and everyone that ran around sorting out my mess for me!  Then later on we found that only the wireless did not work so I got to connect for a few minutes and get my email which I am now answering as well.

So. Tomorrow a new day starts with a fresh start - again. Me, Lucia (my Spanish Teach) and Abel (the guide) are literally the only guests at the lodge!  Not a soul other than us.  I am not sure whether I like it like this or not - but it is what it is - and so far its fabulous.  There are many things to keep me busy, many things planned and oh those SPanish lessons are trying SO hard not to stick in my brain!  I WILL learn some of it - I will.

And so, with many critters crittering away just outside the mesh, a meer foot or two from my bed, I will end this long email off.  I had to catch up or some things would never get written down.

Yes, I have many many photos already...and will hopefully get some uploaded from Tena on the weekend.

Till the next episode
love and light, g'night!
Annie

www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

b - Hello Ecuador!

I am here and ok and very very tired and cant wipe the smile off my face
and Gypsey (my camera) has been chaffing at her lens cover to get out
and play! Unfortunately the Mariscal Sucre airport in Quito had an
issue with power right after the plane landed - well, that stopped and
backed up all the customs for multiple flights. In addition to that,
being the way I am Kate got me to the airport really early this morning
and my bags went on the airplane first, so guess what - yup, they came
off on this side stone cold last. I am going to have to rethink getting
to an airport so early.

During the day I had written thoughts and things as the day sauntered
along - so here they are............ I am not sure that I even slept
much at all last night - always worrying about the alarm not waking me
up or switching it off in my sleep - yup, that's happened before. But
not today - I was up and Kate did not waste much time at all - when I
looked around she had all my bags out in her truck already. I was still
trying to break away from those two sets of little dog eyes looking
forlornly at me as I moved to the back door, making a last sweep over to
see if I had missed anything.

The Check In Chappie at Chattanooga airport had a wicked sense of humor
which helped ease my soul awake while it was still dark outside. There
was nowhere open to sit and have a cuppa coffee, so Katie left me to my
own devices. Thanks sis - I owe you a 5am-er!

Time to board and I was fine. We had to walk down some really narrow
little stairs and across the tarmac to an even steeper ladder of
stairs. I found myself almost laughing out loud at the the thought of
what I am doing, where I am going - THAT I am going!! What a wonderful
feeling that short walk was.

I had often sat outside looking at those airplane trails made high in
the sky and hoped, wished and dreamed that I would be on one of them
again sometime soon.............. and here it was today! The taxi-ing
trip to the take off position took so long that I thought the pilot had
decided to drive to North Carolina instead of flying!! FInally we got
off the ground as the sun was rising, throwing a light pink brushing on
the tops of the fluffy clouds that dotted the sky, while the ground
seemed to still be in sleep-shadow. We flew right along the path of the
Tennessee River for a good long way, then hopped over the mountains and
down into Charlotte, NC. While waiting outside for our carry on
luggage, the pilot stepped out as well - Bea, he was a duplicate of
Sean! I must have looked stupid with my mouth hanging open in shock.
Fortunately I did not say anything stupid.

Walking for what seemed like miles through that airport, I wondered
again at all the stories cramming that place..... I know an airport
becomes just a 'holding place' when you get used to flying a bit, but
there is so much going on, hello's and goodbyes, sad stories and love
stories and everything in between - its really all walks of life crammed
into a small space - and fascinating to watch........ especially from
one of the white rocking chairs that were found all over the place -
thanks Wendy!

It was a small-child-sticky-hands-free flight to Miami - I was at the
window again, and the middle seat was open which made it really
comfortable and that lady and I got to chat for a while. Airplanes
were lined up as if in a traffic jam, waiting to take off and I smiled a
bit when I realized that I had two very sweaty palms again, but decided
to ignore that issue and just enjoy - and I did. Its funny how the
airplane seems to get up on her tippy toes when they rev those engines
before takeoff - its like its just rearing to go and then the brakes
come off and boy do they get up speed fast!

Miami came up fast while watching the clouds scud by, the occasional
airplane flying below us looking like lurking sharks and the beautiful
coastline, dotted with islands everywhere and plenty little and big
boats having fun out on the water, all the way down. The patchwork of
earth slipped away under the wings of the plane with no apparent sense
to its layout and it got me wondering about life and stuff. Often
whatever is happening does not seem to make sense from a distance, but
when up close, that's when what can look chaotic from afar, becomes
clear. Sort of like this adventure of mine - it seems to make little
sense to some who are not close to me, but others know that I need this,
that ............. well, its my patchwork that somehow feels so
absolutely right in all ways. Ok 'serious' thought done for the day :)
Wait, one more - we were flying so low that I thought that if the plane
were to crash right then, at least it would not take long. Ok -done now :)

Miami arrived and I only had two gates to walk to get to the next
departure point! And there was a cute little restaurant there that
served me a great hamburger and fries while I people watched and waited
for an hour to tick tock by till take off time again. I was starting to
feel tired at this point too. When we boarded the plan, there was a
woman with a small child sitting in my window seat............. oh no no
no!! Fortunately she found another window seat for herself on the other
side of the plane - I could not sit with no window all the way to Quito!

Everything is in Spanish already - I listen and try to figure out the
gist of what they are saying and then confirm it or hang my head in
frustration when the English translation comes on. This trip is going
to be reeeaaalllly interesting! I really hope I can get to learn the
language at least a little bit while I am here. Having 4 hours of
lessons a day should help a lot - hopefully!

Anyway - I kicked off my shoes, drew the blanket around me and snuggled
into the pillow, watching Cuba slip on by and then some other gloriously
blue waters and eventually nothing but the clouds.. But they were also
interesting for a bit. The sea had multiple different shades of blue
and the clouds were almost brilliant white but all different shapes and
formations. There were huge almost gentle swirls, pop corn clouds,
rolling waves of air and some clouds were laid out in straight lines -
all doing their own thing for no apparent reason. And the hours moved
on and suddenly there was the moon right at the wing tip, with the sky
darkening to a lovely hue of blue and yes, Gypsey played and caught a
bunch of photos. At times it almost looked like a snow scene, with the
clouds solidly hiding earth from us all, but creating such a spectacular
landscape at the same time. As one of my daughters said many many years
ago - "its where the Angels live, mom". Maybe it is - its sure
beautiful. The late sun decorated many of the clouds with a gold splash
as it slid down giving way to the moon. Every here and there was a
greay spot, all dark and angry looking......I will spare you my thoughts
on that and just say one word... "Balance". :)

When lunch arrived I saw a bottle on the cart that looked interesting
-white wine to go with the chicken - oh yeah!! It was just a small
glass but I could feel the wine pulling on my eyelids and after I was
offered a top up, and I accepted, I found that pillow again, snuggled
down and dozed off for a bit. We flew right over the Panama Canal, but
it was totally clouded over with no chance of a sighting.... maybe on
the way back.

Landing at Quito is beautiful - the lights on the ground look mostly
beautiful gold in color and so warm and welcoming and jus I just loved
squishing my nose to the window to stop the inside reflections and watch
the beautiful display playing out below me. When we landed, I found
myself quite emotional........ it was such a good feeling to be here
again - so many really good and happy feelings about the next two weeks
got me all teary eyed for a second or 4.

Then the power went out in the airport and my luggage arrived stone cold
last, but Tavo waited for me for the almost two hours it took to get out
of there! Driving through Quito just took my breath away - its
beautiful, old, quaint, awesome, amazing - just lovely on so many
levels. I am SO happy to be here and cant wait to spend a weekend
around here after my time in the Jungle.

And so here I sit, the hotel's internet crashed this afternoon, I have
no phone either and there is a huge big gate on the front hotel door
that clearly spells to me not to go out. So its off to bed with me
after a really long, lovely, happy day. Tomorrow I head into the jungle
by bus and will spend the night at Tena - hopefully they have internet -
and food! I am sooo hungry.

Love and light
Annie
ps - I will leave you with the minor tidbit that I was robbed of my
money, credit cards and some camera stuff (small stuff) and a few other
things - but was not hurt in any way....... and it was me just not being
smart :( All is well. Today was amazing too - beautiful countryside
and all - but that is also for the next email.

Sorry about the worry the lack of contact created :(


www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

--
www.amazontravels.blogspot.com

a- Back to the Amazon Jungle!

And so another adventure begins! I am heading out on Saturday, 24th for
just over two weeks. The first week will be at Yachana Lodge on the
Napo River in Ecuador which is a major tributary of the Amazon River.
My Spanish teacher, Lucia, will meet me in Quito and travel with me by
bus and canoe to get there. Hopefully I will soak up a bunch of Spanish
this first week. Then off to spend a weekend on my own in the town Tena
- just a few hours from Yachana. I hope to meet up with some people
during the first week and have a fun weekend seeing what there is to see
around Tena. On that Sunday, my teacher (or maybe a different one) will
again pick me up and we go to Sinchi Aqua, or Sinchi Warmi..... I am not
quite sure which is the official name yet - both are used. Basically it
means Strong Women. This is a small communitywhere a group of women run
an art center. It is just about 5 minutes away from the town of Misahualli

My second week will be spent learning more Spanish, helping out in the
community, teaching the kids English as well as enjoying the many
cultural experiences they have there for me. It looks as if I will be
the only 'tourist' there during this week, so it should be very
interesting and have a greater possibility of getting really involved here.

I hope to find out much more about the area and the needs. Ever since I
was in the Amazon 3 years ago, my heart has held a special place for the
place and the people - especially the kids at the river schools. They
need so much and some of them walk hours and hours to school and back
each day. The math that was on the boards in those classrooms was
complicated fractions and so on - none of us on that tour could work
them out! The schools close down when they run out of money for
pencils, paper and other school supplies.

Those kids are happy to be learning, happy to be at school and they have
so incredibly little. Maybe in some way I can help make a difference.

After two weeks in the Jungle, I will be spending the weekend in Quito
where I will meet up with Tavo - he is a fantastic guide that I met last
time. I am hoping that he will have some time to show me more of Quito
and its surrounding areas and hopefully squeeze in a visit to the
Otavalo Market too!

So.........I am almost all packed up with about 100lbs of 'goodies' to
take to the schools and communities along the Napo River, looking
forward to seeing everything there and also to see how I will have
changed yet again by the time I get back. Come along, lets go see what
there is to see!

Annie

Back to the Jungle!

And so I find myself packing again.....  and it feels SO right!

What an adventure this is going to be.  I want to grow, to go outside my comfort zone, to experience new things separate from what I already know and am comfortable with, to learn a new language, meet new people and hopefully find a deeper purpose in my life.

It starts with much planning and packing, many thoughts on what to take along with me to donate to the Communities I will be visiting.  I found a wonderful site, www.packforapurpose.com, that has helped me decide what will be of more use to the people living along the Napo River in the Ecuadorian Amazon.

So many have shown an interest in contributing to these communities and I will have to start fundraising to cover the cost of taking multiple suitcases down there :)

In planning this trip, the organization, Yanapuma, has been absolutely fantastic in helping me with all my planning, fears and endless questions.  Thanks particularly to Emily B who has put me totally at ease and given me the extra confidence to do this.

After three connecting flights and high hopes for no delays and not getting lost, I get one free day in Quito before heading out to Yachana Lodge on the edges.  Gustavo, from http://www.terrandesecuador.travel, a tour guide from my previous time in Quito, will meet me at the airport and take me to what looks like a really sweet hotel.  

Then its off to the Jungle where a part of my heart has been for a good few years now, with my Spanish Teacher.  Yachana Lodge looks amazing.  

"Yachana Foundation's mission is to continue to achieve sustainability through education and conservation. Every organizational initiative and decision we make are based on this goal.  

Our vision as a world leader in Geotourism is to create ongoing community development and economic opportunities, to provide training and education that inspires and transforms individuals into leaders and efficient  administrators of natural resources, and to give viable economic and sustainable alternatives to the people who call the Amazon Rainforest their home."

Here is more information on the Yachana Foundation:  http://www.yachana.org.ec/our_work.php

I will spend a week at the Yachana Lodge, learning Spanish with my teacher, exploring the jungle, villages, beautiful places and also exploring opportunities to be of help in any way I can.

The weekend will be spent on my own in Tena, a smallish town along the Napo River.  I will be without my teacher for the weekend, and hope to do some tours from there or hang out with others I have met at Yachana Lodge.

Week two will be spent at Sinchi Aqua.......  "Sinchi Aqua is a project run by a group of Kichwa women of the Amazon region, near the village of San Pablo, which itself is close to the village of Misahualli in the province of Napo. They have developed a visitor center with accommodation for overnight guests, and are engaged in crafts activities as well as farming and horticulture. Studying Spanish at Sinchi Aqua offers a great way to connect with the Kicwha culture and experience their relationship to the environment of the Amazon, while supporting a very worthwhile iniciative by the group of women."

It's here that most of the goodies that have been given to me to take along, will be delivered. 

After this second week of Spanish lessons, jungle exploring and helping out in the community, as well as being almost submerged in Spanish-only speaking, I should be able to put at least one or two sentences together in Spanish!  I hope.....  Right now I know how to ask for a beer, ask where the bathroom is, say hello, thank you and goodbye and very little else.  Hopefully my brain can absorb a lot more than this!  

And then its back to Quito.  Here I will meet up with Tavo again and hope to get to see some of the places around Quito that I did not get to see last time and to learn more about the beautiful country of Ecuador.

I have a feeling that this really is a great step in the right direction for my life.  It's time to give back to the world, time to make a difference outside of myself and those closest to me.  It's time to step way out of my comfort zone and maybe even eat a bug or three while I am doing all this.  

Maybe, just maybe, I can help make a difference in a very positive way, to contribute to the enrichment of someone, someplace and hopefully that ripple will extend far enough to make a difference in the world in some way.

This is going to be an incredible adventure and I am so glad to have you all along with me again.